This article with the following tips may help some fishermen and yet there are others that use their own methods quite successfully. This is meant as a general guideline to help “newbies” get started. The riggings here have proved to be quite successful with many seasoned Niagara River fishermen. There are more tips on this page so be sure to read them all! There are other articles and pages on this website that offer some great inside information on fishing the Mighty Niagara. Go to the index/contents page

Tips on drift fishing for King Salmon in the Lower Niagara River

Lines and leaders depend on whom you are asking. Most everyone fishes something similar. A good generalization would be 14 to 17 pound line from your rod, and some even use 20# line. Remember the heavier the line, the more water resistance and more weight required. Leader off the 3-way swivel to the bait would run 8 to 9 feet depending on the length of your fishing rod and if you are using egg sacks or skein. That will allow your bait to move freely and more natural. If using the favorite hard bait like Kwikfish lures, shorten up on the leader maybe to 5 to 7 feet. The leader line weight should be 14-15# or less depending on your rod length etc. CLEAR mono, or a lot of river fishermen are using the new, thinner fluorocarbon lines. The line off your drop pencil sinker should be 8 to 10 inches and 8 or 10 pound test. Weight varies with the wind and the current. Generally start around 1 to 1 1/2 ounce, and pencil sinkers can be cut to size the way you want with a pair of side cutters or most needle-nose pliers have a cutter on them.

Tips on Steelhead Lakers, Browns, etc.

Basically, rigging the same way you would for Kings will provide super results but DO lower your line poundage tests on your rod line, [suggest 8-10#] leader line [6-8#] and your drop sinker leader [6-8#] accordingly. Pencil sinkers can start at 1 ounce or less. In all cases, make sure you are either on the bottom or just inches above it.  
Go to this page for pictures and information on "drift rigs"

Pay Attention:

·        Always use good line and good knots; especially pay attention to the fluorocarbon line knots.

·        The fluorocarbon lines are good but it lacks the elasticity required sometimes that is needed with big fish and light lines, light rods, and strong currents. Using it for leaders to your bait is a real asset because of its thinness. But make sure you go light.

·        A good trolling motor can be a great asset by helping you control your drifts.

·        Pencil sinkers help reduce the loss of conventional sinkers, therefore reducing the need to keep tying another rig every time you lose a weight. Especially in cold weather!

·        In cold weather most fishermen will have their rigs all rigged to go BEFORE getting on the water

·        Always remember: Practice Safe Catch and Release!

Shore Fishermen Tips;

·        There are many shore fishing opportunities, and number one would be at the New York Power Authority fishing dock/pier. A long walk down to the dock but you can drive down and have someone drop you off or pick you up. DO NOT park your car there. There is parking provided at the top.  You could be in for a heap of stink by parking below. There is very limited handicap parking below for those that need it. Always be courteous to the boat fishermen drifting by, even though some of them don’t seem to reciprocate, they are busy too.

·        Devil’s Hole State Park allows for a great fishing experience but is for the hardy and young at heart. There is a long climb down a set of stairs cut into the rock shale. Hauling a 25-pound salmon up is no fun either. But the fishing can be the greatest of all. By all means, do not go there without a camera. The scenery is just beautiful and trying to explain what you saw is not as good as the picture. Even a picture of your catch and release fish with the background of the river is worth framing. Fall is really exciting.

·        In Lewiston, go to the Artpark parking lot [free for fishermen] and walk towards the river. [Follow signs] There is access that will take you to some really nifty shore fishing. A long trail and well worth the price you pay for the walk. You will see the favorite spots to fish on the trail by the way the area looks along the shore. Some will be really beaten down from others using those spots. Again, don’t forget the camera.

OK. Shore fishermen. What baits do you use? Tough question. Everybody has their own favorite but some true, long-standing favorites are heavy spoons, spinners and egg sacks or skein.

Spoons could be Little Cleos, mostly silver with a blue stripe 2/5 ounce or K.O. Wobblers. Spinners, could be Super Vibrax in sizes 4 or 5. Blade colors used are mostly silver, the body colors vary, but silver, florescent green, or chartreuse are good choices. Florescent red has been known to be a potent color on some days. Egg Sacks and/or Skeins are tough to beat some days and at certain times in the Fall. They can be bought at your local independent tackle dealer and those dealers are listed on this website on the Bill Hilts Fish Finder page .

Spoons and spinners are best if used without snap swivels but we suppose you could if you are into changing your lure sizes and colors frequently. Tie directly on the end of your line and cast up river, about at the 10 o’clock direction and allow the bait to drift down to about the 2 o’clock angle and reel ‘er in, hopefully with that big fish! Do the same with egg sacks/skein or single eggs sometimes. But now you need weight. Three-way swivels rigged like the boat fishermen will work or better yet, use a split shot of suitable weight pinched up the line. The split shot should be up the line far enough to allow the eggs to drift naturally.

·        Always remember: Practice Safe Catch and Release!

Boat Care for Winter Fishing Enthusiasts and
WINTER FISHING THE NIAGARA RIVER
  Click Photo  Notice Floatation Suit                       January 2003

By Captain Aaron Shirley ~ Burlington, Ontario, Canada
Web Site: www.surleyfishing.com
Email contact: aashirley@hotmail.com

A fresh blanket of snow glistened along the banks of the mighty Niagara River under the warm January sun.  The emerald green water meandered so peacefully around us as we made a drift down one of my favourite stretches of river.   My mind wandered in the tranquility that surrounded us, as I witnessed a rare sight - a bald eagle swooping down from an overhanging branch to attack a seagull.  Content can only begin to describe the way I was feeling on this mild winter day.   I was quickly reminded as to the reason I was on this majestic river, when a fish jerked down my rod tip.  After a short tussle, my fishing partner slipped the net under a beautifully coloured steelhead, and I couldn’t help but think to myself just how lucky I was to experience such a tremendous winter fishery.

Although running a boat throughout the winter months can be enjoyable, some very necessary precautions must be taken to ensure you will minimize the obvious risks involved.   

Part of the preparations I take for operating a boat during the winter, is to make sure to change the gear lubricant in the lower end of my outboard engine in late fall.  This is to ensure that there is no residual water in the lower end from summer use, apart from regular maintenance.  Even a small amount of water in the gear case could freeze and crack the casing.  Only the use of an outboard motor should be used in the winter, as an inboard/outboard engine is rather difficult to drain all the water out of, and will more than likely cause costly repairs.  I only use a tough riveted aluminum boat in the winter as well, as the riveted aluminum hull will flex a little in the extreme conditions, and you will hit a lot of ice on the river during a cold snap.  I make sure to grease all my fittings, and change the oil in all four-stroke engines as well.  I use a 5W 30 type of oil for winter use.  Since the air is a little thinner during the winter (similar to higher altitudes on mountain lakes), a different mix of air into the engine can improve performance.  If you notice that your outboard is stalling frequently at a low throttle in the winter, you may want to consult with your dealer to make changes to your air mixture.

I make sure to grease the tongue and ball, and lubricate all other moving parts on the trailer more frequently in the colder temps.  Applying a little electrical paste on the trailer wire connections will help prevent corrosion from forming due to road salt.  I also like to spray a lubricant on bunk trailers, such as silicone, to help prevent the aluminum hull of the boat from freezing to the trailer. 

I always carry salt, a shovel and something to break up the ice to launch the boat, as there can be a lot of ice and snow built up in the launch ramp in the winter.  I also drive a Ford Explorer, which has a four-wheel-drive,  'four wheel low' system, which is highly beneficial when launching in the often-icy conditions.  Installing a front winch on two-wheel-drive trucks can save some aggravation, as I have seen some vehicles slip back into the drink with the weight of the boat and trailer.   Some unlucky anglers haven't been able to make it back up the launch ramp at all, requiring assistance, and tying up the launch ramp for extended periods of time.

After I launch my boat, I let my engine soak in the water for a few minutes before starting it on really cold days (-6 Celsius or below). (+21F) This is done to allow the lower end of the engine to match the temperature of the water, reducing wear and tear.  When I start my engine, I watch for the telltale jet stream of water flowing out of the engine.  If there is no out-flow of water, I use a piece of wire to free the ice in the hole.  Sometimes it can take a few minutes to get going, just be sure not to run your engine very long if there is no out-flow of water.  Start it up every few minutes until it starts flowing.  

I normally fill up with an ethanol-based gasoline, or add a small amount of gas-line antifreeze when fueling up.  I also make sure to fill the fuel tank completely full after every trip, to help prevent any condensation from building up in the fuel tank overnight.

I always carry a large flat-headed screwdriver in the boat to carefully scrape the buildup of ice that forms on the trolling motor.  Actually, carrying a good assortment of tools on board can be highly beneficial, as you never know what kind of trouble you may be faced with in the winter.

On the really cold days (like -10 Celsius or below), (+14F) I keep my engine running while I am drifting.  I would only do this with a quiet, fuel-efficient 4-stroke, as noisy 2-stroke engines running through a drift can shut the fishing down quite quickly.  Trimming up and down your engine periodically will hamper the effects of ice building up around the engine.  If you don’t adjust your power trim once in a while on a brutally cold day, your engine may freeze in the current position with several inches of ice.  This will cause you to put a lot of strain on your power trim, or possibly not allow you to trim up your engine at all.  Individuals without power trim should also pull up their outboard once in a while throughout the day when it’s really cold out, or you will not be able to pull up your engine whatsoever at the end of the day.

  At the end of the day when I pull the boat out of the water, I lower my engine all the way down immediately to drain the water from the lower end.  You must do this right away in really cold temps, as it can only take minutes for the trapped water to freeze, potentially causing serious damage.  I then turn my engine over, and leave the engine running for only a few seconds.  This will help to get the trapped water out of the impeller and water pump.  I then drain my live wells and take out the boat's main drain plug, to drain the hull of any water.  If you forget, a buildup of water could freeze and cause damage, or at the very least, freeze up your bilge pump. 

  When I get home, I charge my deep cycles and main battery after every trip as preventative maintenance.  I also try and wash the boat and trailer every chance I get on a semi-warm day to get the road salt off as well.

  I would highly recommend wearing a floatation suit in cold weather.  Not only will they keep you afloat should you fall overboard, but they will also help to keep you warm and dry (in the boat!).  Layering up with thermal underwear, polypropylene socks, with thicker wool socks overtop, proper outerwear, gloves, mitts and hats will help keep you warm and dry all day, allowing the fishing experience to be much more enjoyable.  On really cold days, I use the chemical reacting heat pads, and take a hot beverage in a thermos. 

  All this preventative maintenance will help you to run safely and problem-free throughout the sub-zero temperatures of winter, and your boat package will also be worth more when you go to sell it, if you take the time to properly maintain your rig.  A higher level of maintenance is definitely required when running a boat throughout the winter months, however; it only requires a little extra time and care when you get on a schedule. 

  As a side note, you should consult with your dealer about the precautions to take with the use of your particular rig in the winter, as every boat package is unique.  These are only some basic guidelines.

  As long as you exercise common sense, winter boat fishing can be an exciting adventure.  Safe winter boating!

DRIFT FISHING THE NIAGARA RIVER. Captain Aaron Shirley  ~ Burlington Ont. Canada
 Web Site: www.surleyfishing.com
Email contact: aashirley@hotmail.com

Drift fishing on the Niagara River with typical three-way rigs usually means a lot of snags and lost terminal tackle. Using slinkies helps to prevent snags, and keeps you in the water longer, allowing you to hook up with more fish and re-tie a lot less! It will also mean a LOT less lead at the bottom of the Niagara River!!! Actually, quite often the same slinky will be on the line at the end of a day of steelheading... even fishing in the infamous boulder-dwelling tackle-eating Devil's Hole and Pebbly Beach drifts!!! I believe that all charter Captains and fishing guides should be using these slinkies rather than pencil-style lead, as they will help to free up a lot of your time on the water re-tying clients lines less, incurring less expense with terminal tackle, and as a bonus, you will not be contributing to a lead cesspool at the bottom of the Niagara River. 

PLEASE NOTE: you will need a slightly heavier slinky than the lead you now use, as the slinky is a bit bulkier than lead, and will take a bit longer to sink. Also, the slinky has a much softer feel to it while drifting. I believe the softer slithering of the slinky as opposed to the sharp, loud tapping of lead will help not to spook weary clear-water steelies as well.

Here are a few tips for making up your own slinkies, as they usually cannot be found in the tackle shops.  

IF YOU GO TO BOTTOM OF PAGE THERE IS A PICTURE OF SLINKIES

 First you will need to make a few purchases:
* Slinky Drifter cord in 3/16- and 1/4-inch sizes (the smaller 3/16" cord is used for the shallower and slower drifts and is   optional). You will be able to find the Slinky Drifter cord at select tackle shops.
* BK4 buckshot for the 1/4" cord, which can be purchased at a gun shop, and small splitshot ("BB" size) for the 3/16" cord.
* Size 12 snap swivels.
* Quality 3/16" and 1/4" heat shrink tubing.

  Other items needed:
* Candle or lighter
* Needle nose pliers
* Pencil
* 10" piece of steel wire (apprx. .045 gauge) or something similar
* scissors

Now for building the little buggers!

1). Cut the slinky cord to the adequate length (a little longer than you think, as the nylon shrinks quickly when heated), and heat up one end a little with a candle or lighter and pinch the end with a pair of pliers to seal off one end.

2). Place pencil point in other end of slinky cord and heat up the frayed end around the pencil briefly, so you make a funnel to add the shot. This is done to prevent more fraying of the cord while adding shot.

3). Place the desired amount of shot into the cord (I find 20 BK4 shot is a good amount for the 1/4" cord, and 30 BB splitshot is good for the 3/16" cord). You will have to slide the shot down to the closed end of cord one by one.

4). Heat up the end well and seal. You will need to heat this end a litle bit more to get a good amount of 'plastic' in the seal, so that you will have enough material to work with for the next steps. Trim the excess plastic from this end with a pair of scissors neatly to make a clean slinky, and to fit the heat shrink tubing and snap swivel.

 5). Heat up one end of a 10" piece of wire until the end is red hot, and pierce it through the middle of the end of cord you just sealed and trimmed.

6). Clip a snap swivel through the hole you just created at the end of the slinky.

7). Cut heat shrink tubing to size (3/16" heat shrink tubing for 3/16" Slinky Drifter cord, and 1/4" tubing for 1/4" cord), and place over the snap swivel and slinky cord end, being carefull to leave the "eye" of the snap swivel exposed, and heat up the heat shrink tubing. The snap swivel idea is to have an "eye" that swivels to tie your line to for a three-way rig, or place your line through to use as a "slip slinky". The heat shrink tubing will prevent the snap swivel from opening, and make a smooth clean slinky that can slither through rocky substrate quite easily.

That's it! You are ready for some snagless drifting on the Niagara! You can use this same method for making smaller slinkies for drifting on smaller streams and rivers as well, or Lindy-style rigging for walleye or bass.

Good drift fishing!

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SHORE FISHING FAST WATER IN THE NIAGARA RIVER

Bill Joseph

 There are a lot of new fishermen out there having trouble catching trout and salmon from shore using bait such as eggs, worms, minnows etc. Maybe this will help you.

* When fishing from shore in fast moving water whether at Devil’s Hole, Artpark or a small stream, pack light.

* Bring hooks & split shot in a variety of sizes. It’s not necessary to bring your whole tackle box.

 * Next take a good look at the water you’re fishing. You want to spend most of your time where the fish are and that’s where the water breaks. 90% of the fish will be behind a rock, a bend in the waterway, or any structure that slows the water down. The most important thing I can tell you about bait fishing is that you need good presentation. It must be natural.

 * Fasten the hook to the very end of your line and a split shot 2 feet above and cast upstream. You want the bait to sink and drift slowly past you along the bottom. You will have to change split shot sizes until you get it right to accomplish this natural effect. If you are hanging up on the bottom 25% of the time, you are probably doing it correctly.

FISHING TIP: When tying egg sacs , include a small piece of styrofoam in with the eggs. This allows the eggs to float slightly upward from the weight on your line thus exposing it more to the fish and reducing your chance of getting a snag.